The past few weeks have put me in
situations where I've been called upon to talk about wine. I'm not a shy
sort, so such occasions are fine with me. For example, I was recently
in Seoul hosting a wine dinner.
Now, there's all sorts of nonsense making the rounds about Asians and
wine. Some of this talk is even put about, I gather, by Asians
themselves in the mistaken belief that because they're not Western they
can't readily grasp the fine points of wine.
So when I stood in front of 65 people at the wine dinner in Seoul,
all but a few of whom were Korean, I was politely blunt. I said that
being a newcomer to wine was just that. It transcends culture. Being
Asian was meaningless. Everybody is a newcomer to fine wine at some point in their lives, and that includes Europeans.
I went on to say that 40 years ago we Americans were collectively as
ignorant about wine as any group of Asian wine newbies. And that we
generated our own horror stories of rich guys who swaggered around
insisting that they only wanted the "best" and that they didn't care
what it cost.
Then I asserted that talking about wine doesn't involve flavor
descriptors. This, it turned out, was the real jolt. I could sense the
surprise when I said it. I, in turn, was myself surprised.
Since when did flavor descriptors become the basis of intelligent
wine discussion? I later learned from guests at the dinner that the wine
instruction that they had received was invariably just a string of
flavor descriptors for each wine under "discussion."
We all know, of course, how this I-Spy game of ever more
precise-seeming associations of scents and tastes—coffee, chalk,
bergamot, road dust and so forth—came about. It was we wine writers who
did it. And we then did yet more of it as wines from everywhere
increased exponentially.
You, the reader, want to know what a wine tastes like. And someone
saying, "This here wine tastes really good," is hardly going to satisfy.
With thousands of wines a year to review, writers had no choice. How
many times can you describe a Pinot Noir as being "cherry-scented"? So
you get more specific, summoning up black cherry, wild cherry, pie
cherry, maraschino cherry, cherry jam and cherry liqueur.
There's nothing wrong with this and I, for one, will happily defend my colleagues in the tasting-note trenches.
That said, anatomizing the scents and flavors of a wine hardly tells
the whole story. Nowhere is this more true than during a wine tasting
such as the one I was doing at the dinner or, earlier, at two training
sessions for the hotel's eager-to-learn restaurant staff.
So how should you talk about wine? Every taster is
different, and I'm not about to say that the following features
represent the entirety of what could or should be examined and
discussed.
But I will say this much: If you're missing these points, you're not
going to fully grasp the qualities of the wine at hand. For me, these
are the six most important words in wine tasting:
Complexity. The single greatest standard used in
assessing the quality of a wine is complexity. The more times you can
return to a glass of wine and find something different in it—in the
bouquet, in the taste—the more complex the wine. The very greatest wines
are not so much overpowering as they are seemingly limitless.
Complexity is not an arbitrary standard. We are, in fact, set up to
respond favorably to it. We have big brains and cortexes. We know from
decades of work in experimental psychology that over a period of time,
we always seek more complex stimuli.
In music, we invariably progress from the simple, or the “banal” as
one researcher referred to nursery rhymes, to more complex melodic
patterns. It appears that we favor—relish might be a more descriptive,
if less exact term—uncertainty or lack of predictability. One researcher
contends that uncertainty in music is complexity. And that uncertainty
gives greater “meaning” to music.
Complexity is more than multiplicity. For a wine (or a melody) to be
truly satisfying, especially after repeated exposure, it must
continually surprise us (uncertainty) and yet we must still be able to
grasp these surprises as part of a larger and pleasing pattern.
So it is with wine. A multiplicity of flavors and aromas without some
sort of cohesion becomes jarring and eventually irritating. True
complexity keeps surprising us, but never fatigues us. That's no small
trick. But it's one that the world's greatest wines regularly pull
off—and it's why they're so acclaimed as the greatest.
Texture. This is a feature of wine that too often is
overlooked. Yet pay attention to texture, as it may be the most
important "hidden" feature of wine quality. This is especially true with
white wines; one of the "giveaways" to quality (and potential
longevity) in dry white wines is revealed by texture.
If you have the privilege of tasting white Burgundies made in the
1950s or earlier, you will be surprised to discover how thick and dense
the texture of those Chardonnay wines is. What made it so? Very low
yields and small berry size. These features also were (and are) critical
to longevity. Simply put, texturally thin wines are a giveaway to
dilute flavors and short life span, never mind the gussying-up of a lot
of new oak and showy flavors from lees stirring. Texture tells the tale.
Midpalate Density. Every taster has his or her go-to
feature. For some it's bouquet. For others it's a wine's finish,
whether it's short or long, intense or faint. For me, it's midpalate
density.
The midpalate feature is sometimes hard for tasters to recognize. The
easiest way to grasp the notion is to imagine a candy with a hard,
dense center. You suck on the candy and figure that it's soon to be
gone. Then you reach that hard, dense center and you discover that
there's a lot more yet to come. VoilĂ ! Midpalate density.
For you Pilates types, think of midpalate density as core strength.
Without it, a wine is weak. Wines, like trees, die from the inside out.
If a wine lacks midpalate density, it will, over time, prove to be
shallow and merely showy. Midpalate density comes from the vineyard,
rather than from the winemaking. It's a creation of low yields and small
berries, often from old vines. I consider it absolutely essential in
assessing both a wine's probable longevity and its potential greatness.
Proportion. The element of proportion is easily
grasped. A wine, like an attractive person, should be reasonably
proportionate. It shouldn't finish "short." You should have a sense of
the wine's flavors being metered out to you in roughly equal amounts and
time spans: the scent, the beginning taste, the midpalate and,
critically, the finish.
Sometimes, especially with very young wines, these proportions can be
skewed and later come into greater equality. But with a mature wine,
you should expect reasonable proportion. If it's not present, then the
wine is either on its way out or it never had the stuffing of real
quality to begin with.
Finesse. The feature of finesse is a favorite of
mine. It's something I look for almost obsessively. Finesse is how the
flavors of a wine are delivered. Imagine a lay-up in basketball where
the player drives toward the basket, gracefully leaps up and the ball
rolls off his fingertips and falls effortlessly into the net. That's
finesse. That's how wines should deliver themselves to you. Without
finesse, wines are clunky, never mind how much complexity they might
have. Finesse, like good manners, is essential to refinement.
Balance. The concept of balance means different
things to different tasters. It's one of those classic
you-know-it-when-you-see-it qualities. At its most basic, balance refers
to an equilibrium created by roughly equal amounts of “fruitiness” and
acidity in wine (and sweetness in a sweet wine).
Balance is essential in that it makes a wine invigorating to us. A
wine that lacks balance palls very quickly. We sense it almost from the
first sip. It's not easily measurable and it's far from exact. A wine,
unlike a ballerina, is not either in balance or out. There's always a
range in what constitutes balance for every person.
In recent years, as wines have become more alcoholic as a result of
grapes picked at high ripeness levels, the concept of balance has come
to include a wine's ability to "balance out" its alcohol level with
buffering fruit density. This is why balance has become such a prominent
term in today's wine vocabulary.
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Saturday, November 15, 2014
Just the fun of eating healthy and cooking lamb!
Hi everybody! Well the weekend turned out to be very relaxing around the farm! I spent part of the weekend at our office sanding an awesome table that we just picked up from the saw mill! And all throughout the weekend, I decided to grill and cook a bit! On the grill, I did a rack of lamb with rosemary and Olive oil. But this time I used a spice that I bought from Fischers Meat Market in Muenster Texas. The results were nothing short of amazing!
When our restaurant Kalos Pub opens up in Whitewright Tx in December, you're invited to dine with us as we provide premium whiskey, local wines from Lenoir Sage Winery in Bells Tx, hand rolled cigars, gourmet teas and coffees along with Filet Mignon, T Bone Steak, Leg of Lamb, Lamb and Beef Kabobs, Tiramisu and cheesecake for dessert! All this with some awesome blues music in the air! We're looking forward to seeing you soon!
Really Cool Videos of our Grass fed Lamb!
Howdy folks! Deidra, my wonderful wife is playing around with making some videos. I hope you enjoy them as we learn how to make better videos for you. If you have any suggestions on how to make quality videos, we're all ears! We're about to open our restaurant here in whitewright. Take a look at our site and blogs Kalos. Kalos in the greek means good or beautiful. I believe you will agree with us once you stop by that the food, drinks and experience are truly kalos! We look forward to having you out soon!
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